Food and Drink

Food meets drink in one of Liverpool's most aesthetically pleasing locales.

The Albert Dock used to be a hub for the high-flyer, a go-to grotto for luxury and leisure were the in-crowd, could molly-coddle the night away.

You can't help the feeling it's a much more sombre scene now, peppered with more family-orientated snack shacks and the site book-ended by major attractions, like the Museum of Liverpool (coming very, very soon). and the mammoth Echno Arena.

Not that that's such a bad turn for Pan Am. Pitched somewhere above a high-end pub eatery and somewhere below high-cuisine, the venue is relaxed without being lazy and lively without being oppressive.

The measured, multi-faceted persona comes courtesy of the layout. The dockside entrance is a stone-floored bar-room equipped for a big game nights and a range of tipples to enjoy before you topple (November's cocktail is the Rum Truffle; resistance is futile).

The balcony above is for the diners, and on th opposition side is a top-floor restaurant bar, with a moodier, broodier drinking lounge below. It's safe to say you won't go thirsty. Certainly not in the hands of the welcoming, local staff. It's pleasing to find the atmosphere of a low-key club lounge accompanied by attentive service and a menu that caters to all tastes.

About the menu. Unlike the current vogue for aesthetic dishes with little meat on their bones, the food at Pan Am retains a simplicity all the while making sure your stomach has a good stretch (there's an American cuisine ethos to be thanked for that).

For those hankering for a taste of the exotic or fanciful, look elsewhere. The grill serves up the usual suspects of rib-eye steaks, Parma Ham wrapped chicken and lamb rump, while the more cultured amongst us can vouch for stuffed Romero peppers, proscuitto, wrapped monkfish or seared king scallops. Each main comes with sides that range from potato cakes to hand-cut chips and buttered spinach, neatly presented and well-selected for their respective dish.

The desert menu, too, is up to scratch; ask for Asher to provide the Crepe Suzette and a good old natter, or opt for the North West cheese selection for something with a regional aroma. Calorie counters may want to carry on along but for the heartier and hungrier out there; check right in.

The prices may arch an eyebrow or two, but it's safe to say you're paying for the location too. A short stroll from Liverpool One, the major bus terminal, Echo Arena and the Beatles Museum; include convenience in your bill and that eyebrow should get some rest. The Britannia Pavilion has long been a key location in the city, one that draws a line under many of Liverpool's qualities.

Within the squared dock of the bay you'll find the Tate, culturing your socks off. The Pavilion is almost a microcosm for the city at large. Albeit one still trying to find its footing during the seismic shift in the city's spotlight with the dawn of its new, Capital of Culture branded identity.

Pan Am may not be ideally placed to give the kiss of food to the Liverpool One shopping brigade, but it occupies a different corner of the modern scouse map. Part of a franchise that includes the nearby Blue bar and grill, it's easy to see the two as companion pieces.

Both provide pre-theatre menus and an atmosphere that co-joins the usually separate twins of food and cocktail lounge drinking. It's this free-flowing atmosphere that keeps your dining experience relaxed but never invasive (Pan Am can hold a respectable 800 people).

Whether it's for a quick-fix or a long-haul, Pan Am still stands strong as an entertainment venue in Liverpool's ever-changing landscape of food and drink.

Albert Dock, Liverpool opens 11.00 am daily, till 2.00 am.

Words by David Valjalo.